Midea Washing Machine E3 Error Code - How to Fix (Midea Washer Door Lock Problems)

If your Midea washing machine is showing an E3 error code, it usually means there's a problem with the lid lock. This issue is pretty common and can often be fixed without too much trouble. The good news is that the solutions are fairly straightforward, and you can often diagnose and repair it yourself with just a few basic tools.

Understanding the E3 Error Code

The E3 error code on a Midea washing machine points directly to an issue with the lid lock mechanism. This could be due to a few things: the lock housing might have debris, the lid might not be closing properly, or the internal components of the lock assembly could be faulty. This problem and solution are identical on Insignia washers and Criterion washers, Arctic Wind washers, as well as a few other sub-brands that Midea makes, too.

Initial Checks

Before you start taking things apart, try these simple checks:

• Check the lock housing: Look for any debris that might be blocking the lid lock. Sometimes a small item can get stuck and prevent the lock from engaging.

• Lid alignment: Make sure the lid sits flush against the top of the washing machine when it's closed. There's a magnet inside the lid that triggers the lock, and if the lid isn't fully seated, it won't work right.

If these quick tips don't solve the problem, it's time to dig a little deeper.

Accessing the Lid Lock Assembly

To properly test the lid lock, you'll need to open up the washing machine. Here's how to do it:

1. Unplug the washer: Always unplug the machine before doing any work on it.

2. Disconnect hoses: Remove any water hoses and the drain hose from the back of the unit. Keep them suspended and make sure the water supply is shut off.

3. Remove rear screws: There are two screws at the back of the machine, one on each side, that need to be removed with a Phillips head screwdriver.

4. Prepare the lid: Move the washing machine close to a wall. It's a good idea to put some tape on the washer lid. This will keep it from flopping back and hitting the wall or the console when you lift it.

5. Lift the lid: Pull the washing machine top towards you, then up. This will allow the lid to pivot up and away from the machine, resting against the wall. Be careful of the impact switch on the left corner; it can sometimes get in the way.

6. Secure the lid: Once the lid is up, use a piece of wood or a metal rod to keep it upright and secure. This will free up your hands for testing.

Testing the Lid Lock Components

The lid switch assembly is usually in the upper right corner of the lid. You'll need to remove three Phillips head screws to take off the cover and get to the components.

Inside, you'll find two main parts:

• The black lid lock

• The white magnetic switch (with a smaller yellow wire)

Both are held in by screws and have separate wire harnesses.

Testing the Magnetic Switch

The magnetic switch can be a bit tricky to remove, but it's important to test it. Use a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove its screw. Once it's out, you can separate it from its wire harness.

To test the magnetic switch:

1. Set your multimeter: Set your multimeter to continuity or ohms resistance.

2. Connect leads: Press the multimeter leads into the harness where the metal is.

3. Use a magnet: Bring a strong magnet close to the switch. As the switch gets close to the magnet, it should change from showing an open loop to showing some continuity (around 0.0 ohms).

If the switch doesn't trigger with a magnet, it's faulty and needs to be replaced. Remember, the lid itself has a magnet inside it, so you can test the switch while it's still assembled to the housing if you suspect the lid's magnet is the issue.

Testing the Lid Lock

First, make sure the white lock can be pressed in and out of its housing without any obstruction.

To test the lid lock with a multimeter:

1. Blue wires: Insert the leads into the blue wires. They should show between 30 and 60 ohms of resistance if the lock is working correctly.

2. Black wires: For the pair of black wires, it should show 'O' (open loop) when the bar is fully extended. When the bar is pressed into the switch housing, it should show continuity of between 50 and 80 ohms of resistance. If you get an 'O' symbol when it's pressed in, the switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

If either the magnetic switch or the lid lock fails these tests, you'll need to replace them. Since these parts are relatively inexpensive, it might be a good idea to replace both if one has failed, especially considering shipping costs.

Reassembly and Final Checks

Once you've replaced any faulty parts, it's time to put everything back together:

1. Reinstall the lock: Mount the lock into its location, making sure it rests on the two pegs. Reinstall the two Phillips screws and ensure the wire harness is clipped in securely.

2. Reinstall the magnetic switch: Place the magnetic switch onto its housing and reinstall its screw. This can be a tight spot.

3. Replace the cover: Reinstall the plastic cover that guards the switches, securing it with its three screws.

4. Lower the lid: Carefully lower the lid of the machine. Watch out for the impact switch in the back left corner, as it can get caught.

5. Secure the lid: Make sure the lid is flush against the sides of the washing machine, then press it backward to lock the top into place. It might take a little maneuvering to get it perfectly aligned.

6. Test the unit: Test the unit with the lid on to see if the E3 error code is gone. If it is, you can reinstall the two screws at the rear of the unit.

What If the Error Persists?

If the E3 error code is still there after replacing the lid lock and magnetic switch, here are a couple more things to check:

• Lid magnet: The lid has a magnet inside it. If this magnet is damaged, it won't trigger the switch. You can try placing another strong magnet on the outside of the lid where the original magnet should be. If this resolves the code, the lid magnet is bad. You might need a new washer lid, or you could try gluing a new magnet onto the outside of the lid.

• Control board or wiring: If none of the above solutions work, the problem might be with the control board or a broken wire leading to it. You'll need to access the control board to test or replace it.

To get to the control board, remove all the screws on the back of the washing machine. Then, remove the two screws on the left side of the machine where the board is located. Lift the board up and out of its housing. The housing itself will have two or three more screws holding its cover in place. Remove those, then press on the edges of the board to flip the top off and access the wires.

Once the board is exposed, you can test the wires to the lid switch (CN4 and CN12) to control the door lock system. Remove the wires from the board and test CN4 number one to CN12 number one with the lid open and then closed. Do the same for the black switch, pressing it in and out for wire two. If it cycles between an open loop and some continuity (around 0.00 ohms), the wiring is fine. If not, there might be a frayed wire. If the wiring is good, then the control board is likely the issue and will need to be replaced. The specific control board part number will vary depending on your Midea washer model.

Hopefully, these steps help you fix the E3 error code on your Midea washer. This guide also applies to Insignia, Criterion, and other Midea-built brands.