Hotpoint Dryer Makes Noise, Thuds, or Screeches - How to Repair

If your Hotpoint dryer is making strange noises like grinding, shrieking, thumping, or bumping, it's a sign something is wrong. These noises can range from minor issues to bigger problems that could cause your dryer to stop working completely. This guide will help you figure out what's causing the noise and how to fix it, step by step.

Checking the Door and Bearings

The first thing to check is the dryer door and its bearings. Open the door and look closely at where the plastic meets the metal. If the noise has been happening for a while, you might see damage here. Sometimes, the bearing can separate from the door, causing the metal dryer drum to rub against the metal door. This can create sharp edges. If you see a sharp edge, you'll likely need a whole new door assembly.

Getting Inside the Dryer

To check other parts, you'll need to get inside the dryer. First, unplug the unit from the wall. Then, move the dryer so you can get to the back. Here's how to open it up:

• Remove the console top: At the back of the dryer, use a 1/4-inch hex head screwdriver to take out the two vertical screws, one on each side. Tap the console from the front towards the back to loosen it. Pivot it up to find two Phillips head screws. Remove these long screws. Pivot the console back into place, tapping it forward to lock it.

• Remove screws under the door: There are two Phillips head screws under the door that hold the top in place. Remove them.

• Lift the lid: With the console locked, pull the dryer lid forward and up. Carefully pivot it back and rest it against the wall.

• Disconnect light switch harness (if present): Some Hotpoint models have a light switch harness on the left side at the top. Press into it and remove it.

• Remove door screws: Take out the two hex head screws, one on each side of the dryer.

Removing the Door

Removing the door can be tricky. You need to pull up on it to get it off the three fingers at the bottom. The door lock wire harness is very short, which makes it hard to move the door far. You can carefully move the door to the left and remove the harness, or angle the door forward and rest it on a heavy box or use a chain to hold it. This gives you access to the wire harness from the back. You'll need to move the plastic cover to the side, then press into the harness and remove the wire from the door switch housing. Once the harness is off, you can remove the door and set it aside.

Inspecting Internal Components

With the door off, gently lift the drum and rotate it. Listen for any noises. If the belt and pulley are still in place, the blower housing should move. Check for lint or debris in the blower housing that could be causing noise. If the bearing or sleeve behind the drum is bad, you can unhook the belt and idler system and rotate just the drum to see if that's the source of the noise.

Removing the Drum

To take the drum out, you first need to remove the idler pulley, which is behind the blower motor housing. Pull the pulley to the right. There's a small tab on the motor mount where you can hold the idler pulley in place to remove the belt. Make sure the belt is completely off the motor pulley, or it might snag when you try to pull the drum out. Use the belt to pull up and out on the drum. The metal sides of the dryer have grooves that guide the drum out.

What to Check After Drum Removal

Once the drum is out, look for anything inside that could cause noise, like dirt or debris. Inspect the rear of the bearing for damage, rust, or pitting. This is rare, but it can happen. If it's very dry, a little lithium or bearing grease can help. Also, check the bearing cup inside for damage.

Cleaning the Blower

If you want to clean the blower, it's a bit more involved:

1. Remove the door wire harness assembly from the blower housing.

2. Use a 1/4-inch hex head screwdriver or drill to remove the 11 screws on the metal plate that hold the front on.

3. Remove the one screw on the bottom and the two long black screws at the top of the blower housing with a Phillips head screwdriver or drill.

4. Behind the motor, remove three 1/4-inch hex head screws from the motor plate.

5. Remove the idler pulley by pulling up on the back side.

6. Unscrew the 1/4-inch hex head grounding screw near the dryer motor.

With these steps done, you can push the motor back an inch or two, allowing you to remove the entire cover or motor assembly. Pull the front of the blower housing forward and to the right to check for obstructions or damage to the blower cage. Clean out any lint or debris with a vacuum cleaner.

Reassembling the Dryer

When putting things back together, start by putting the blower cover back on with at least two screws to keep it from falling off. Push the motor and blower housing towards the front of the chassis to lock the plates into place. Slot the idler pulley into place, making sure it seats into the metal finger on the motor housing and the small hole on the back side.

Reinstall the three screws into the motor plate, the single ground screw, and all the screws into the front of the blower housing. This includes the two long black Phillips head screws on top, one slightly longer Phillips screw at the bottom, and the 11 short hex head screws. You might want to partially insert all screws first, then tighten them.

Inspecting Door Components

Look at the door you removed earlier. It has four plastic slides and some felt pieces. Check these for wear or damage. If the plastic glides are damaged or missing, they will definitely cause a lot of noise. If the glides have been damaged for a long time, the drum might wear through the plastic bearing, meaning you'd need a new top plastic bearing housing. The lower half of the door has felt and a lower plastic bearing; check these the same way. Often, if the bearing glides are damaged, the plastic can scrape against the drum, making noise. This is a common source of noise in Hotpoint dryers.

Checking the Idler Pulley and Belt

Make sure the idler pulley can move freely. There should be some bearing grease on its metal arm. Sometimes, the plastic pulley can get flat spots, causing the belt to rub and make noise or make the unit run poorly. If the pulley looks damaged, replace it. Also, check that the belt isn't frayed and is in good condition.

Final Assembly and Testing

Now, let's put the dryer back together. When putting the drum back in, remember the idler pulley trick: pull it and set it on the motor housing before placing the drum. The drum has two grooves; make sure the belt rests on the rear one. The bearing at the back of the drum should go straight into the bearing housing. Turn the drum slightly to check for obstructions.

Wrap the belt around the motor pulley properly before releasing the tension on the idler pulley. Once the drum is in place, you should be able to turn it gently and see the blower housing move with the belt. Listen for any obstructions.

To put the door back on, rest its bottom on the three metal fingers on the dryer chassis. Pivot the door forward to the bulkhead. You might need to rest something on the door front to reinstall the door lock. Move the plastic cover out of the way and reinstall the door switch harness. When pivoting the door into place, the drum's bearing needs to rest on the door frame. This can be a bit tough, so you might need to open the dryer door and wedge it into place by moving the drum against the bearing. Make sure the metal tabs on the inside of the door and the chassis line up.

Once the front is on, insert the two short 1/4-inch hex screws into the top left and top right sides of the dryer. If your door light harness was on top, reinsert it. Secure the top of the dryer to the chassis by bringing it forward and snapping it into place. You can test the dryer now to see if your fix worked. Plug it in and see what happens. If it's running quietly, you're good to go!

Finally, finish putting the dryer back together. Reinsert the two long Phillips head screws into the top part of the dryer door to secure the top to the front cabinet. Insert two identical screws at the back, one on each side. If you unplugged any wires, reconnect them. Slot the six fingers of the console into their holes, pivot the console back into place, and tap the rear of the console forward to lock it. The last step is to install the two top hex head screws that go down from the console into the metal top of the dryer, one on the right and one on the left.

By following these steps, you can identify and fix common noise issues in your Hotpoint dryer, getting it back to working smoothly.